Four Nights A Week

Adventures in Eating

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Amy’s Writing, Photography and Art can be found at amybisson.com

  • 29 January 2018: Red Bean Stew

    2018-Jan-29_fournightsaweek_red_beans_1704When you go to your local wine purveyor to ask about a wine that will pair with Red Bean Stew, you really are setting up for a challenge.  And, luckily in my case, our local wine and cheese shop, Tutto Bene, has a very knowledgeable owner, Wendi Wilkins, who hit this recommendation out of the park. 

    This wine, Seven Sinners (2015), is created from a 100% Syrah from Central Valley of California around Lodi. Deep red, and velvety in color, the wine is tastes big and jammy to me with some nice spiciness. My palate may still be under construction, but I know what I like, and I like this wine. A lot! And who knew? It was perfect with the Red Bean Stew I adapted from the New York Times’ Martha Rose Shulman for Meatless Monday. Head over to Tutto Bene before Wendi runs out. Because, as Wendi tells it, you will be sad when you run out.

    Red Bean Stew

    Adapted from Martha Rose Shulman, New York Times

    We tend to eat mainly plant-based in our house and off and on I’ve eaten strictly vegetarian meals for much of the last 30 years. Mondays are generally Meatless Mondays around here, no matter what, so tonight I gave this hearty red bean stew a try.  Don’t let the preparation of the beans intimidate you. Once you’ve prepared dry beans from scratch, you’ll have a difficult time going back to canned beans with (as Sara Moulton would say), their lovely gelatinous material.  Just plan ahead and it will all be fine.

    Ingredients

    • 1 pound (2 1/4 cups) red beans, washed, picked over & soaked for 6 hours or 2018-Jan-29_fournightsaweek_red_beans_1716overnight in 2 quarts of water
    • 2 TBPS extra virgin olive oil
    • 1 medium or large onion, chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, minced
    • 1 large green pepper, cut into small dice
    • 2 TBSP sweet Hungarian paprika
    • 2 TBSP tomato paste
    • 1 bay leaf
    • Salt
    • 1 tsp oregano
    • Pinch cayenne (I substituted 2 TBSP-you read that right-Sriracha Sauce)
    • 2 TBSP red wine vinegar
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • Freshly ground black papper
    • 1/2 cup minced fresh parsley
    • 1/2 cup drained yogurt (I used Greek yougurt – 0% fat)

    Method

    1. Drain the beans through a strainer set over a bowl, Place the beans in a large soup pot or Dutch oven. Measure the soaking water in the bowl and add enough water to measure about 2 quarts (this is less than NYT recipe called for). Add to the pot with the beans, turn the heat to medium high and bring to a gentle boil. Skim off any foam and/or bean skins.
    2. [This is my adaptation]. Drain the cooked beans (I let them simmer for about 30 minutes), reserving the cooking liquid. Wipe out the pan or dutch oven and continue with step 3.
    3. Heat 1 TBSP of the oil over medium heat and add the onions, carrots, and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are tender and fragrant (about 8-10 min). Add 2 of the garlic cloves and continue to cook for another minute or so. Season with salt, add another TBSP oil and add the paprika. Cook, stirring for a couple of minutes until the vegetables are well coated with paprika. Add a ladleful of the bean cooking water to deglaze the pan then stir in the beans and add the rest of the bean water (should be about 2 quarts of liquid). Add tomato paste and bay leaf, reduce heat and simmer for an hour with the cover on.
    4. Add oregano, remaining garlic, sriracha (or cayenne if you really don’t want this to be spicy), vinegar and sugar. Simmer for another hour. Beans should be thoroughly cooked at this point (i.e., not crunchy!). If you want the broth a bit thicker, take about a cup of the beans out of the pan and mash or blend them. Return this to the pan.
    5. Just before serving, stir in the parsley. Serve with large dollop of the drained yogurt.

  • 23 January 2018: Cocoa Brownies

    2018-Jan-23_fournightsaweek_brownies_1694We recently purchased a condo unit in the building in which we have been renting. Our new neighbors gifted us with the wonderful bottle of wine which we have determined would go quite nicely with some chocolate. I mean, what doesn’t go with chocolate? I’m not sure I want to live in that world.

    There are plenty of brownie recipes made with cocoa in place of bar chocolate, but oftentimes I’ve found them to be pretty dry. This recipe comes from Bon Appetit and is hands down one of the most chocolate-y of cocoa brownie recipes I’ve ever tasted.  And, it is quite tasty with our bottle of Ipsus 2008 Passito de Pantelleria.

    Cocoa Brownies

    Bon Appetit, December 2012.

    Ingredients

    • Nonstick oil spray
    • 1/2 cup unsalted butter cut into approximately 1 inch chunks
    • 1 1/4 cup sugar
    • 3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (I used King Arthur’s Triple Chocolate)
    • 1/2 tsp kosher salt
    • 1 tsp vanilla extract (I used vanilla bean paste)
    • 2 large eggs
    • 1/3 cup all purpose flour

    Method

    1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Line and 8-inch square pan (glass) with foil, pressing firmly into pan and leaving a 2 inch overhang. Coat foil with nonstick spray and set aside.
    2. Melt butter (I microwaved, BA suggests doing this in saucepan). Let cool slightly.
    3. Whisk sugar, cocoa and salt in a medium bowl. Pour butter in a steady stream into dry ingredients, whisking constantly to blend. Whisk in vanilla.
    4. Add eggs one at a time, beat vigorously to blend after each addition (make sure the butter has cooled a bit or you’ll end up with bits of scrambled eggs – yuck).
    5. Add flour and stir until just combined – do not overmix. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth top. (I added some chopped up dark chocolate dove bar here just for fun).
    6. Bake until top begins to crack and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached. 25-30 minutes.
    7. Transfer pan to wire rack; let cool completely in pan. Use foil overhang and lift 2018-Jan-23_fournightsaweek_brownies_1692brownies out of pan. Cut into 16 squares.

    Ipsus 2008 Passito di Pantelleria
    I love, love, love that this moscato dessert wine comes from Sicily. Smooth and a golden color your can practically taste the sunshine!  The wine is produced in a southernmost island near Tunisia; somewhat sweet (but not overly so) there are notes of apricots and raisins. Definitely great sipping wine to go with dessert. To find out more about these wines, link to the Wine-searcher site here.

     

     

  • 16 January 2018: Lemon and Garlic Chicken With Mushrooms

    2018-Jan-16_FourNightsAWeek-Chicken_1652
    Santos Winery 2016 Santorini Assyrtiko


    A side benefit to a subscription to the New York Times – not that I need one – are the wonderful food columns. This recipe from Martha Rose Shulman is a great weeknight meal because it     comes together quickly.  Tonight, the dish was paired with a delightful and slightly mineral-ly Assyrtiko from Santorini which I picked up on recommendation from Tutto Bene Wine and Cheese Shop. Both of us were more than a little unfamiliar with the wines of Greece (click the link above for NYTimes Wine School article about Santorini wines), but this one was definitely a home run ~ Thanks Wendi!  Tasting notes follow the recipe.

     

     

    Lemon and Garlic Chicken With Mushrooms

    Martha Rose Shulman, New York Times

    Ingredients

    • 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts
    • 2 TBSP extra-virgin olive oil
    • 3 TBSP lemon juice (use the fresh stuff for best flavor)
    • 2 garlic cloves minced or pureed
    • 1 tsp chopped FRESH rosemary
    • Salt to taste
    • Freshly ground pepper
    • 2 TBSP all-purpose flour
    • 2 TBSP grapeseed, sunflower or canola oil (I substituted Olive Oil)
    • 1 pound mushrooms, sliced (I used baby bellas)
    • 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves or 1 TBSP chopped flat leaf parsley
    • 1/4 cup dry white wine (I used Assyrtiko – cook with what you drink as Julia Child would say)

    Preparation  2018-Jan-16_FourNightsAWeek-Chicken_1654

    1. Stir together olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, rosemary and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Here’s where I deviated from the original recipe: I pounded the chicken breasts BEFORE adding to the marinade, so if you want to try that as well, go to Step 2 now). Add the chicken to the marinade (I always marinate raw fish or poultry in a zip bag for food safety). Refrigerate for 15 to 30 minutes (or, if you do this prep earlier in the day, the extra time in the marinade doesn’t seem to hurt anything).
    2. Place 2 sheets of plastic wrap on your work surface, overlapping slightly, to make 1 wide sheet and brush lightly with oil. Cover the chicken with another wide layer of plastic wrap. Working from the center to the outside, pound chicken breast with the flat side of a meat tenderizer (or if you don’t have one, I found a heavy rolling pin works fairly well) until the chicken is about 1/4 inch thick. [If you are doing this step prior to adding the poultry to the marinade, go back and finish up step 1, and if not…. be sure to pat the chicken breasts dry BEFORE pounding] At this point I cut the chicken breasts in half so that there were 4 pieces altogether.
    3. Season the pounded chicken breasts with salt and pepper on one side only. Dredge lightly in the flour and tap to remove excess.
    4. Turn oven on low (this is for holding the chicken after cooking). Heat a wide heavy skillet over high heat and add oil. When oil is hot, place one or two pieces of chicken in the pan – do not over-crowd. Cook for 1 1/2 minutes, until bottom is browned in spots; turn over and brown the other side (about 1 1/2 minutes) [I ALWAYS check the internal meat temperatures to that I know things are cooked through and safe (165 degrees) – that would be my advice here as well. Go by internal temperature, not time.] Transfer to a platter or sheet pan and keep warm in the oven. If there is more than a tablespoon of fat in the pan, pour of some (not all).
    5. Turn the burner down to medium-high. Add mushrooms to the pan. Let them sear for about 30 seconds to a minute without moving them, then stir, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze. When mushrooms have softened slightly and begun to sweat, add wine, thyme or parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Continue to stir until wine has evaporated (this took under a minute for me). Spoon over the chicken and serve.

    Tasting Notes for Santos 2016 Santorini Assyrtiko (from the Winemaker)

    A pure expression of the indigenous Assyrtiko grapes grown in the unique basket-shaped vines aka kouloures at the volcanic terroir of Santorini. This wine is a classic benchmark of the variety and its homeland. A vibrant aromatic cocktail of sea-breeze freshness and citrus fruits with honeyed undertones. Bone-dry, brightly acidic with a textural minteral smokiness and food-begging finish.

    Alcoholic content: 13.5%

  • 11 January 2018: Myers + Chang and Pinot Noir

    2018-Jan-11_FourNightsAWeek_2018_1638_edited-1I’ve been doing a lot of cooking from Myers+Chang At Home lately and enjoying their Asian inspired cooking quite a bit.  This is the latest attempt from this book: Pan-Roasted Soy-Glazed Salmon with Cool Cucumber Salad.  (see page 130 of the Myers+Chang At Home cookbook for recipe details).

    While I didn’t go for the Crispy Shallot garnish (too much frying for me), I did follow the rest of the recipe’s instructions. Worth the time and prep, which was not too intense for home cooks.  Cooking salmon is something we do about once a week here. I’ve found a decent frozen product through Whole Foods Market which we keep on hand as a quick protein addition to dinner salads.

    As far as this recipe goes, definitely do not skimp on the Sriracha sauce and think ahead as to the type of pan you choose – it should be safe for both stovetop and oven.

    Our friend Wendi Wilkins, owner of Tutto Bene Wine and Cheese Shop, made an

    2018-Jan-11_FourNightsAWeek_2018_1629
    Brandborg 2014 Bench Lands Pinot Noir

    excellent pairing suggestion of a Northwest Oregon Pinot Noir from Brandborg. As the notes say, the wine is beautifully transparent ruby red and paired really well with the salmon. This wine is in stock at Tutto Bene and definitely enhanced the dish.

    Brandborg 2014 Bench Lands Pinot Noir

    [From the Winemakers]: The 2014 vintage was characterized by a warm and dry spring, that did not really let up throughout the whole season.  The seasonal temperatures ended up being slightly higher than average, with an early bud break, few heat spikes and a long dry fall, giving us a very long frost free period, perfect for late ripening fruit.  Our Bench Lands is a composition incorporating many sites.  Within these vineyards we have selected blocks and clonal types that work well together in this harmonious blend.  The soils are very diverse mixes of alluviums deposited along the Umpqua, originating in the three mountain ranges that encircle this river valley, the Klamath -Siskiyous, the Cascades and the Coast Range.  These well drained soils create a wine with structure and balanced tannins.

    The wine is a lovely transparent ruby color.  The aromas are dominated by ripe red cherries, blueberries, hints of cranberry with overtones of wild mountain meadow herbs and wild flowers.  The flavors add raspberries to the cherries, with some orange pith, coffee and mocha.  The wine’s mouthfeel is filling and supple.  The acidity gives it a nice zing, to compliment a moderately long finish and make this very food friendly.

    This supple pinot would pair well with fatty fish like salmon or tuna, and has enough acid to go with curries, roasted and herbed mushrooms or even grilled meats, especially pork, with barbeque sauce.

    Production:3914 cases

    Alcohol:13.6%ABV

    Total Acidity:5.8g/L

     

  • 10 January 2018: Red Curry Cauliflower with Tofu

    2018-Jan-04_FourNightsAWeek2018_1597_edited-1The recipe for this is purposely MIA today. Meyers + Chang At Home is not only a cookbook it is a primer on Asian cooking that should not be missed. Want to know how to shape dumplings? Shop for Asian food products? This is the book. Seriously. Go get it.

    The first dish I tried was this one, Red Curry Cauliflower with Tofu (found on pages 182-183). Yes I did make my own Vegetarian Curry Sauce (p 183). Bring on the heat! And, if you don’t have other plans for the leftover coconut milk, try Coconut Rice Pudding, also posted on the FourNightsAWeek blog.

    Paired with a very dry hard cider it was delicious. And, should you find yourself in Boston, be sure to treat yourself to a visit to Meyers + Chang on Washington Street.

    For blog regulars, be sure to check out our upcoming recipe sharings. We’re delighted to be offering some suggestions for wine pairings courtesy of Tutto Bene Wine and Cheese Shop owner Wendi Wilkins. 

  • 04 Jan 2018: Coconut Milk Rice Pudding

    2018-Jan-04_FourNightsAWeek2018_1608Whenever I use coconut milk in a curry, I usually end up with 3/4 of can left over.  “Now what?” is the usual thought. So the can gets stored in the fridge until I figure out that I don’t have any other use for it and have to throw it out. I know. Pathetic. This week, however, when I made Joanne Chang’s Red Curry Cauliflower with Tofu (coming soon), I was determine to utilize that last bit of coconut milk.

    Because we are in the midst of Snowstorm Grayson here in New England, it just felt right to make something warming (and sweet). So after some Google-ing, I decided upon Rice Pudding.  The recipe I ended up making is an adaptation of one found on Epicurious, the main change being I swapped around the proportion of coconut milk and whole milk. After all, the point here was to get rid of the coconut milk.  If you do try something like this, be sure to stay near the stove. Boiled over milk is a nasty clean up.

    (Mostly) Coconut Milk Rice Pudding

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups UNSALTED COOKED rice
    • 2 cups coconut milk + 1 cup regular milk (I used 1%) for a total of 3 CUPS milk
    • 1/3 cup sugar (I used brown)
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp (more to taste) cinnamon
    • 1/2 tsp vanilla (I used vanilla bean paste because I like the intensity)

    Method

    1. Simmer rice, milks, sugar and salt, uncovered in a 2 1/2 to 3 quart heavy sauce pan over moderate heat STIRRING FREQUENTLY until thickened (this takes about 40-45 minutes).
    2. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla.
    3. Serve warm.

  • 8 Nov 2017: Purple Cabbage Salad

    2017-Nov-08_FourNightsAWeek_1498Not sure how it happened, but I recently began receiving a food mag “All Recipes.com”. In the September/October 2017 print issue was a recipe for Purple Cabbage Salad, so in an effort to “eat the rainbow”, I put it on this week’s menu. 

    It comes together very quickly with a food processor for shredding and the ingredients were mostly items I would have in my pantry any way – just needed a purple cabbage. At 165 calories per 2/3 cup serving, it’ll make a break from lettuce salads and a nice side for tonight’s dinner.

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 cup pine nuts
    • 2 1/2 cups shredded red cabbage
    • 1 11-oz. can mandarin oranges, drained
    • 2 green onions, chopped
    • 1/4 cup sweetened dried cranberries
    • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
    • 1/4 cup canola oil (I used olive)
    • 1 TBSP sugar
    • 1/4 tsp salt

    Method

    1. Toast pine nuts in a small skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly until fragrant and lightly browned (about 2 minutes). Transfer immediately to a bowl and let cool.
    2. Lightly toss together cabbage, oranges, green onions and cranberries in a bowl. Whisk together vinegar, oil, sugar, and salt in a bowl until sugar and salt dissolve.
    3. Stir toasted pine nuts into salad and top with dressing. Toss again to coat before serving. (This salad can be made up to 1 day ahead and chilled, tightly covered.)

     

  • 05 Nov 2017: Cinnamon Brown Sugar Bars

    2017-Nov-05_fournightsaweek_1461A recent impulse buy from King Arthur Flour was cinnamon – two different kinds actually. As I was growing up, I only knew that cinnamon came from a McCormack’s tin. The two types of cinnamon I purchased for baking – and yes, I can taste a difference – were Vietnamese and Madagascar.  Now to use them before they become stale.

    Today’s weather was dank and dark and a fitting day for some comfort food and smells. This recipe for Cinnamon Brown Sugar Bars seems to fit the need and will, I hope taste as wonderful as the aroma that now fills my kitchen. 

    This recipe was collected from My Kitchen Craze and can be found here.  But don’t stop with this bar recipe; lots of delicious looking and sounding possibilities to explore.

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup butter softened
    • 2 cups brown sugar
    • 2 eggs
    • 1 TBSP vanilla extract
    • 2 tsp baking powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp cinnamon
    • 1/4 tsp nutmeg
    • 2 2/3 c all-purpose flour

    Cinnamon Sugar Topping

    • 2 TBSP sugar
    • 2 tsp cinnamon

    Method

    1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F. Spray a 9×13 baking dish with non-stick cooking spray and set aside.
    2. Using a stand mixer (or hand mixer), cream together butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add eggs one at a time, making sure to incorporate each one.
    3. Add vanilla and beat until smooth.
    4. Add baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and flour to a medium bowl, whisk to combine. Add the flour mixture to the mixer and stir until just combined.
    5. Pour bater into baking dish and spread evenly with a spatula.
    6. In a small bowl mix cinnamon and sugar. Sprinkle evenly over the batter.
    7. Bake for 25-35 minutes or until bars are set in the middle and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool completely until cutting into bars.
    8. Eat by themselves (my choice) or with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. Enjoy.

  • 26 August 2017: Romesco Sauce

    2017-Aug-26_FourNightsAWeek_1419Deborah Madison’s newest cookbook, In my kitchen is full of terrific vegetarian (and vegan) recipes. I’ve been a Deborah Madison cooking fan since Vegetarian cooking for everyone, and this book is, in my opinion, a great follow-up.

    Sadly, I had never heard of Romesco sauce until this cookbook and a roasted cauliflower recipe calling for it.  As Deborah Madison explains in her notes, this sauce is versatile and can be used for everything from roasted potatoes and leeks to garlic rubbed toast.  In the years since Deborah first created this recipe, her preparations have changed from using fresh tomatoes and a mix of hazelnuts and almonds.  

     

    Ingredients

    • 1 slice country-style white bread
    • Olive oil to fry the bread
    • Sea salt
    • 1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and skins rubbed off as much as easily possible
    • 3 garlic cloves
    • 1 1/2 tsp group red chile OR red pepper flakes
    • 1 TBSP tomato paste (or a bit more for tasting adjustment)
    • 1 TBSP chopped parsley
    • 1 tsp regular or smoked paprika
    • 2 red bell peppers, roasted, peeled and seeded (could use jarred)*
    • 1/4 cup sherry vinegar
    • 1/2 cup best olive oil

    Method

    1. Fry the bread in olive oil until golden and crisp. When cool, grind it with the hazelnuts and garlic in a food processor until fairly fine.
    2. Add the ground chile (red pepper flakes), tomato paste, parsley, paprika, and bell peppers, and process until smooth.
    3. With the machine running, gradually pour in the vinegar and then the olive oil.
    4. Taste and make sure the sauce has plenty of piquancy and enough salt. If you feel it needs a little more tomato paste, add it no more than a teaspoon at a time.
    • * Here’s where Amy is telling you not wuss out on the roasted red peppers because roasting them in an oven is a snap.  Here’s how:  Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Line a sheet pan with parchment. Now clean and cut the peppers away from the stem and seeds (here’s a video from Serious Eats to show you how).  I usually wipe the insides and the skin side with olive oil. Cook skin sides down for 25 minutes. The outsides should have a nice char to it. Cool them and use. Way better than that vinegar-y bottled stuff that passes for roasted red peppers.

  • 15 August 2017: Roasted Carrot and Cumin Dressing

    2017-Aug-15_FourNightsAWeek_1387While I can make a decent vinaigrette and a passable tahini dressing, I haven’t strayed far from the standards as far as gussy-ing up salads.  This, it turns out, has been an error of omission.  We eat some form of salad nearly every night, so branching out to new tastes was long overdue.

    This dressing comes from one of my new favorite cookbooks, Thug Kitchen.  And, as usual with the Thugs, it is simple, plant-based and is entertaining. It also is really quite tasty – who knew roasted carrots made such a great dressing?!

    Ingredients:

    • 3 medium carrots
    • 1 tsp olive oil
    • 1/4 tsp ground cumin
    • Pinch of salt
    • 1/3 cup white wine vinegar (also suggested: rice wine vinegar)
    • 1/4 cup water
    • 2 TBSP orange juice
    • 2 TBSP olive oil

    Method2017-Aug-15_FourNightsAWeek_1389

    1. Heat up your oven to 357 degrees F. Chop up your carrots into chunks no bigger than 1/2 inch. Toss them together with the oil, cumin, and salt. Roast them in a small pan, covered until the carrots are tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
    2. Let the carrots cool for a minute then add them to a food processor with the rest of your $***. Blend it until it’s smooth. This could take as long as 3 minutes.